Geoff Jones

Sidmouth to Lyme Regis on the South west Coast Path

Posted on May 15, 2012May 28, 2019

Today marks the end of my fifth week on The Path and I’ve now covered 545 miles of the 630, so only 85 miles to go 🙂

I left Larkstone House after a humungous breakfast and what can only be described as a blast with a pressure jet shower, easily the most powerful one yet on The Path.

I finally left over the pretty pedestrian bridge and started another day on the roller coaster, climbing through the most stunning bluebell wood then along the top with great views over yesterday’s cliffs. I met a pair of American ladies from Wyoming who were only going to Beer today, so I soon left them 🙂

Then down into Weston Mouth and back up again through another very muddy bit with a hiking group struggling. Past a group of National Trust folks trying to repair a path.

Branscombe Mouth was interesting with a cafe and the 14 ton anchor from the MSC Napoli that ran aground in January 2007, the 2400 containers and all the motorbikes safely removed or stolen 🙂 Then it was an interesting undercliff walk towards Beer and the inevitable caravan park. Beer was nothing like I remembered it from my youth when we used to cycle from Creswell to the YHA. with a bit more climbing and descending I was in Seaton.

In Seaton I tried 2 cafes but neither could be bothered to serve me! the others ones looked grim so I crossed the oldest concrete bridge in the UK and started climbing out, I noticed the Axe Cliff golf club was open to walkers so after a wait I managed to get a sandwich & pint plus a talk to two golfers (whose mates are apparently doing The Path) and four local lady hikers.

After this it was a mega undercliff walk to Lyme Regis. This part was a totally new experience, more like walking through a forest ,very pleasant especially if you enjoy bird song, personally I plugged in the headphones and listened to Nocturnal with Matt Darey.

A great walk especially reading about the Bindon Cliffs when a 1km section broke away in 1839 and proved a huge tourist attraction for many years and so to the delightful town of Lyme Regis which I must say is very pleasant, to be greeted by your host in the local pub before showing me my room in his house next door, the Smuggler, struck me as very civilised.

The photos for today are here, statistics here, and Everytrail below
Sidmouth to Lyme Regis on The South west Coast Path at EveryTrail

Dawlish to Sidmouth on The South West Coast Path

Posted on May 14, 2012May 14, 2012

Today started off as a low energy day, funny how buildings can do that to you. It didn’t get much better when I left and found it to be raining. 🙁

I continued walking along the coast wall between the sea and Gods Wonderful Railway as the GWR was known. at Dawlish Warren (an apt name) you have to leave the wall and meander pass sad looking shops for the bucket & spade brigade then walk next to the road along an elaborate new path/cycleway that can’t make it’s mind which side you should be on, before it gives up and dumps you on the narrowest bit of the road.

I crossed the railway at Starcross for the ferry with it still pouring, of cause there was no shelter. Eventually we left, me as the only passenger for the 15min £4.50 crossing to Exmouth into the new harbour complex of flats, which I’m afraid to say held no appeal. I eventually found a cafe in an old Pullman carriage at the model railway centre. A short climb later I was next to some fancy needle sculpture opened by Charles in 2002, whoever pays for this stuff? The little stone engraved stones on the side of the path were better (telling me gorse smells of coconut).

After passing the depressing caravan site near Budleigh I met three posties (Steve, Larry & Bertie) from Bristol, a very cheery lot especially given they were camping the path. One of whom had completed it before. I bumped into them again in the cafe at Budleigh. They are hoping to do A Coast to Coast walk next year so I told them about the lady who produces the b&b guide. Here’s the link for their daughters and better halves. None of the lads use the internet!

After the lunch my spirits and the weather lifted. I gave a group of squaddies a good run for their money (OK they were carrying 60kg backpacks).

Then past the amazing Ladram caravan site. Where a gorgeous thatched cottage is surrounded by cravans. I just imagined the cottage owner waking from a deep sleep and thinking WTF has happened. Before I used to live ina gorgeous valley with a lovely beach now I’m surrounded by hundreds of campers trying to be happy. 🙂

Finally the sun came out as I was entering Sidmouth, what a civilised lovely place this is. Even the ice cream shops close at 5pm its all very prim. However, I notice like Cambridge it’s lost the main Post Office. However, it still has a vibrant range of independent shops. Mike at Luggage Transfers found me the b&b at Larkstone House & I’ve forgiven him for giving me the wrong postcode, adding an extra mile to the day 🙂

The pictures for today are here, statistics here and Everytrail below
Dawlish to Sidmouth on The South West Coast Path at EveryTrail

Tomorrow Tuesday I pass through Seaton & Beer on my way to stop at Lyme Regis, then its Abbotsbury on Wednesday followed by Weymouth for a couple of nights Thursday & Friday to do The Bill . Which means the next stop is Poole and the end.

Paignton to Dawlish on The South West Coast Path

Posted on May 13, 2012August 26, 2021

Another brilliant sunshine day with no wind, that’s two in a row now 🙂

The day started with an easyish walk along The English Riviera past all the very English beach huts overlooking the red sands. Climbing out through the old gasworks, now skilfully converted into a park with the old gasometer basins made into pond like features (In Cambridge ours was converted to a Tesco!). After the harbour, who affords all these vast tupperware boats? and past the aviary I came across more interesting park benches, I loved the one made in stone by the National Association of Master Masons bench. Maybe it serves as a reminder to get your order in for your gravestone.

Today’s trail markers were 6 inch square solid wood posts, notched out to take the directional arrows. They really love spending money on these markers. Problem is there are so few it is easily to get confused, maybe it’s a cunning plan to get you to buy guides.

Just before Oddicombe Beach a cafe was doing brisk business selling tea at £1 and cakes at £1 as he said it kept business simple, just like the pound shop. The bridge to Oddicombe beach was allegedly closed but seemed in pretty good order to me ,-) I loved the cliff railway out of Oddicombe, although of cause I walked alongside it.

After a few more roller coaster hills and a few mistakes (Why mention a car park in the guide when you have to walk on the road! not in the car park)

Only one interesting guy today. He walks his dog 10miles in the morning & 6miles in the afternoon EVERY day. Then spends his time rock climbing round the UK. No wonder he was as thin as a rake.

The ferry across to Teignmouth was very cosy with holiday families debating about wether to walk up to the viewpoint. To get to Dawlish involved walking along the top of Brunel’s seawall holding the GWR line in place.unfortunately it ended by the tunnel so there was more ascending to do. Before I called it a day at the rather expensive, jaded & dated Oceans B&B on the Marine Parade, I think i will leave future accommodation to the experts

My pictures are here stats here and Everytrail below (I’ve given up trying to add photos to Everytrail, It’s just to frustrating & unreliable now.

Paignton to Dawlish on The South West Coast Path at EveryTrail

Stoke Fleming to Paignton on The South West Coast Path

Posted on May 12, 2012April 8, 2021

After the mother of all sleeps at Fairholme I awoke for the first time, on this trip, to a glorious blue sky and no wind. After a lavish breakfast I was on my way.

The first 4 miles to Dartmouth were OK, although I declined the option through the mud and followed a dog walker up to the coastguard cottages and then along the road (the old route apparently according to the OS). In fact on the side of the road there is a plethora of acorn signs which don’t really make sense.

Dartmouth is very photogenic and I recognised the huge Officer Navy Training building on top of the hill, where, in a past life, I was lavishly treated to a night’s stay. The stay came about because we sold them some kit for their electron microscope a long time ago (I remember the orderly reeling of a huge list of marmalades when I stupidly just asked for marmalade).

This time I was with the plebs and went to the chandlery, the sort of shop that sends my brain whirring on what I could use all the marine kit for around the house 🙂 this time it was spinnaker tape for fixing holes in my shorts pockets, some gorgeous nylon cord & a special cement for fixing tears and holes in nylon (even punctures in rubber boats). Then it was on the ferry. Which is dragged across by a tug boat driven with extraordinary skill. At the other side I started walking up the hill only to realize I had left my poles in the shop 🙁 so back across the water and another £1.20. The ferryman felt sorry for me on the third crossing and let me on for nothing 🙂

I walked on only to get stuck behind a plonker who thought his car wouldn’t go down a narrow lane, I tried to convince him he could but he insisted on reversing which was even worse especially with his wife saying it was very going to hit with a good 3″ gap. I began to wonder if I would ever get started on the difficult bit ahead. Fortunately two ladies came by and took over 🙂 I squeezed by and sped on.

A short while later the ladies zoomed past, saying they had been relieved by another group who had convinced the driver to get through. I was left thinking I’m getting very slow…I overtook them shortly afterwards when they sat down to admire the view,

The route quickly turned into a roller coaster with a vengeance up and down lots of coombes (which got me thinking about my most hated teacher at school was a Ma Coombes!).

Eventually, at Berry Head I found a cafe in the fort as i was getting parched (dry carrot cake at £2.80). I left suitably refreshed and who should I find on the seats down the lane but the two ladies from earlier in the day, so maybe I’m not so slow after all 🙂 they were only on a day walking trip to Brixham taking a weekend off from kids & hubbies to visit the Dartmouth music festival.

I left them at the historic replica of the Golden Hind ship and raced on for the next 6 miles to Paignton, past 100’s of Sally’s objects of desire, Beach huts 🙂 even more up and downs past the kids and unhealthy looking folks dawdling along.

I eventually found The Adelphi ready for another good nights kip, although the bed is very soft!

The pics are here and stats here with Everytrail below:
Stoke Fleming to Paignton on The South West Coast Path at EveryTrail