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Camino Invierno – Monforte de Lemos to Chantada

Today should have been a long day as the Camino distance between Monforte and Chantada   is 31km. However, we are exceptionally fortunate in having a backup with Geoff driving Colins car so once again he drove us outside Monforte to the 113.3 marker stone on the LU-4106.

The route is very rural keeping me occupied updating the hamlet names on OSM every mile or so using the Go Map!! app. walking was quite slow as Colin’s foot was playing up again plus he left his hat behind at one of our many stops necessitating a dash back for me to collect it.

The drop down through the woods to Belesar from the church of San Paio de Diamondi (Interestingly the 100km point to Santiago) was fantastic although looking at the equally sharp ascent across the river made us pleased that Geoff was waiting by the river in the car especially since we hadn’t passed any open bars or shops!

After some food and checking in at Hotel Mogay we then attempted to find the Gold award winning Airas Moniz cheese farm, GMaps conveniently stuck a pin in the middle of a field which we then drove around in a series of circles 🙁 Eventually, we found some mechanics who gave us instructions. Once there whilst waiting for the cheesemaker to separate the curd & whey  I updated OSM to make sure no one suffers the same fate!

We had a quick tour, its a very small place, interesting but alas no blue cheese to take away but the sample tasted pretty good.

Strava says we walked I6.7km (but 1.2km was fetching the errant hat)and 305m of ascent.

Strava says:

The pics are here:

Camino Invierno to Chantara

Here is Colin’s estimable post of the day

Camino Invierno – A La Brada to Monforte de Lemos

Another excellent walking day, I’m really getting into my stride now 🙂 The distance between Quiroga and Monforte de Lemos on the Camino Invierno is given as 36km which is a bit far for us, although a first for us on this Camino is we met a fellow walker from Austria who was doing the whole 36km at speed.

Our solution was to ride in the car to Restaurant La Brada this reduced the distance to just less than 20km starting very close to a medieval bridge and a 200 metre climb 🙂

Dropping down into A Pobra do Brollón a wild boar and her family of piglets dashed across our path, fortunately, the father wasn’t around although Colin did get to meet the local election candidate, at length, in the cafe when we stopped for our morning drink 🙂

The scenery then became more rural and flatter apart from the final 100 metre climb before the descent into Monforte de Lemos and Geoff awaiting in the car to take us to the Hotel Ribeira and a short walk to the excellent Taperia Restaurant.

An excellent day walking of 19km.  The rain stayed away. although at one point it became quite cold.

The  Strava is here:

and the days’ pics are here:

Camino Invierno A Labrada to Monforte de Lemos
Another excellent write up on the day by Colin here


Camino Invierno – O Barco de Valdeorras to Quiroga

River Sil Valley

Once again as the Camino Walks it would have been 46 km from  O Barco de Valdeorras to our lodgings outside Quiroga our distance is governed by the lack of accommodation on the route especially for 3 pilgrims requiring single rooms, although it has to  be said we haven’t walked past very many, if any other, accommodations that are open.

Fortunately for today Colin and I having Geoff with his Achilles tendon problem and Colin’s car we not only get to have our bags carried but also can choose which bits to walk 🙂 Today we chose to walk from Montefurado to the outskirts of Quiroga a distance according to my watch of  just over 17km but with over 450m of ascent.

House in need of TLC

The views down the Sil River are magnificent as are all the ancient derelict houses begging to be renovated, in fact, we asked the sole resident in the street he immediately wanted me to buy his 3 bedroomed modernish house with amazing views down the valley for €50,000 so he could retire to Leon. 🙂

A very enjoyable day with the weather quite a bit cooler and the occasional light shower underfoot mainly on tracks and incredibly quiet roads.

We managed to find a lunch stop on the outskirts of Quiroga, the Meson Parillada O Ferreirino very pleasant and at €10 for a three-course meal and beer a real bargain. Then a short ride to our homestay lodgings Hospedaje Ferreria-Quinta with the two baby owls nesting in the old tree stump outside 🙂

Strava says we walked 17km and 456 metres of ascent in 4 hours 23min
Today’s pics are here:
Camino Invierno – O Barco de Valdeorras to Quiroga

Camino Invierno – Borrenes to O Barco de Valdeorras

The distance via Camino between Borrenes and O Barco de Valdeorras according to my route is 36km so a pretty lengthy one!

Fortunately our host, Saturno, offered to drive us all in his 4WD to the Mirador de Orellan and then drop us of in the car park outside Las Medulas thus saving  7km walking on the Camino plus giving us a private viewing of the spectacular ruins of a mountain demolished by Roman slaves in the pursuit of gold for their masters.  This ably demonstrating the advantages of having a fluent Spanish speaker in our trio thanks, Colin!

We turned off the Camino to do the short walk to the Mirador de Pedrices to admire the ingenuity of the Roman engineers in using water as a blasting medium to break up the mountain. Whilst thinking why hasn’t anyone finished the job off with dynamite!

We then started the long descent into Puente de Domingo Florez to find a very welcome bar for a drink and some tapas the route then went up a hill and past an intriguing hydroelectric scheme, apparently built by the Germans to aid their extraction of Wolfram (Tungsten Ore) in the forties. The track is very undulating down the valley with great views of the surrounding countryside and the slate works alongside the main road below. We decided to end the days walking in the lovely town of Sobradelo having a great late lunch in the busy Meson Museo restaurant. Fortunately, Geoff joined us with Colin’s car so we could skip the final 9km to O Barco.

The Hotel O Camino had a very challenging electronic kiosk to obtain the entry key which took at least 20 minutes to issue the keys for the three of us.

The day itself was cool and overcast with periodic rain showers

So Strava says we walked the 23 km (The watch missed around 1km) in under 5 hours of walking so 4.6km/hour

Here are the pics of the day:
Camino Invierno – Borrenes to O Barco de Valdeorras