Salcombe to Stoke Fleming on The South West Coast Path

No complaints about the weather today! mainly sunshine light winds pretty well perfect.

Now we are threeAfter a hearty , if somewhat late breakfast, at The Ria View I took the£1.50  ferry across the estuary and started walking at 10am. I made excellent progress and soon caught up with the lads I met at the Avon ferry yesterday, now down to 3 as the fourth had suspected food poisoning from the Brie he had last night and so was taking the bus. As for the taxi two no sight of them all day.

StonechatTotally inspiring scenery with some quite dodgy bits on Gammon Head climbing around rocks with a big drop on one side. Then past Maelcombe House a  sprawling pile that woud never get planning permission these days. Where <i met a full blown twitcher who pointed out the Stonechat.

At Start Point (great name especially with signs that say Coastal Path Start) I met a guy carrying a tripod who told me of the benefits of using neutral density filters and long exposures to get great cloud shots (the clouds are stretched to give the picture atmosphere).

Paul & wifeThen I dropped down to a smart large building (formerly the Trout’s Hotel) where I noticed a guy languishing  in a chair, I commented there was no cafe between here and Salcombe when to my surprise his wife appeared and said we had met on the ferry from Falmouth. Oh! how I envy folks who can remember faces. So a cup of tea and slab of cake was soon forth coming and a chair passed over the railing so I could have a snack literally ON The South West Coast Path. Afterwards Paul and his wife showed me round their luxury apartment that they were preparing to rent out & an amazing place it is too. You can find it here Start Bay Lookout and it really is as luxurious as they make out 🙂

Much refreshed I continued down to Hallsands& Torcross then along the historic Slapton sands used for the mock D-Day landings (all the population was evacuated). After which the path starts using the dangerous A379 around Strete, although a £25,000 alternative path is under construction.

I finally stopped for the night in the lovely village of Stoke Fleming where Mike had fixed me up in Fairholme B&B, Chris is very friendly waiting in for me before dashing out to the Dartmouth Musical festival.

All the days pictures are here, walk statistics here and Everytrail below.

Salcombe to Stoke Fleming on The south West Coast Path at EveryTrail

Bigbury On Sea to Salcombe on The South West Coast Path

Today was all about the weather, there was little else to see due to the very low cloud. At Burgh Island on a foggy dayBigbury you couldn’t even catch a glimpse of Burgh island.

What I did see were the huge number of planning applications tagged to everything that couldn’t move, Cambridge may think it has a problem of over development but crikey these seaside towns are inundated with us rich oldies pouring millions in to get a sea view. My theory is that the eye / brain  seeks movement, hence a tiny few of us walk, the majority want to sit and watch the flicker of a TV set and those with the dosh want to watch the tides come and go 🙂

Waiting in the rainI finally reachedAt the Avon ferry after taking the wrong turn in  the farm at Mount Folly where I met the couple who I had met at Wembury, although unbelievably it was me who recognised them 🙂 plus a group of 4 lads all doing the path from Plymouth towards Poole. We were all getting a bit concerned as he didn’t show till 10.20 and the alternative land route looked a nightmare.

As the day went on the rain & squalls started, in Hope I hung around in the cafe, debating with myself wether to make it a short day.  The 4 lads marched past, the couple I noticed snook into the back of a taxi! The price the pub wanted, £60 for the night sealed it’s fate, I  soldiered on.

Fog is a funny thing 30 mins wastedAlong Bolberry Down it was horrendous, almost zero visibility heavy squally showers, the Scarpa boots leaking like sieves & sliding all over (well they are 4 weeks old!). around bolt head I got confused and ended up walking the same stretch 3 times, thus adding half an hour to the day. The Canon D550 became confused as well and and decided to stay on all the time!

Finally reached the outskirts of Salcombe where the YHA is but decided to continue up and down the hills that separate all the beaches and get into Salcombe proper. Where the nightmare of finding a room began. The pub wanted £70 for a room only! one house £60 for the room only, I phoned up another 5 all full/closed etc Finally Mike (who had tried to contact me all day but eh this is the UK mobiles only for the big townies)  came to the rescue and found me Ria View but with a small disadvantage of a late breakfast at 9am, so the Ria is where I’m at and very pleasant it is too.

I really can’t understand the mentality of folks, running a business with fixed costs, who would rather have nothing than say £40. Especially the pub who lost my evening trade too.

The photos are here, statistics here, and Everytrail below
Bigbury to Salcombe on the South west Coastal Path at EveryTrail