Very early Thursday 26th
With yesterdays 100 mile epic ride from Trinidad to Playa Giron I now have over 1,000 miles on the clock OK, the conditions were favourable with temperatures in the 20’s and a good wind most of the day, smooth empty roads, and with the nearly 3000 ft of climbing mainly on the first section to Cienfuego.
I must have been refreshed after my day off lazing in Trinidad a town I quite enjoyed as it still has, for now, many original shops selling a bizarre range of products like micro Homebases although of cause mass tourism is affecting it with shops selling tourist tat quickly taking over and buildings getting renovated and smartened up to appeal to olde worlde tastes.
The previous days short but hillyish ride from Sancta Spiritus to Trinidad probably helped too. Interestingly I met at a refresco stall two Canadian guys from Toronto (4 hour direct flights to Trinidad) on their uber smart racing bikes who use Trinidad as a winter training base in fact later on 4 other guys came racing by.
Also in Trinidad I bumped into the 3 German girls who I had previously seen at the Yacobe campsite two of them had suffered with severe diarrhoea as well, our conclusion was it was the green beans
I also had a shave and haircut in Trinidad. Abel Garcia Leon is a fourth generation barber and uses the same chair as his great-great grandfather bought in the 1880’s.
I set of from Trinidad really early in the dark as I couldn’t face another disorganised breakfast and in the process discovered both that hills are really easy to climb when you can’t see them (and cool) and also the delightful La Vega roadside restaurant amazingly fast service and excellent food. In fact Exodus use it for lunches, I passed the cheerful Exodus group a couple of hours later, a bit strung out with a poor guy struggling at the rear with the back up bus almost pushing him up the hill.
Coming into Giron you cycle past miles of rice being dried on the road and then scooped up, with any debris, and bagged an incredibly labour intensive process.
Here in my homestay in Playa Giron there are also a Dutch couple cycling around Cuba, in fact they seemed to have cycled in most countries of the world They told me about the little museum here dedicated to the Bay of Pigs fiasco so hopefully I will get to see it after brekkie.
All the rides are on Strava https://www.strava.com/activities/440461990
I’m now over halfway in time and folding my paper map (Michelin 786) into two exactly in the centre of the island although I don’t intend doing another circular tour like along the South Coast so should be quicker to the top of the island. Although I want to stop a couple of days in the Bay of the Pigs as payback for when theVulcans kept us awake. Flying so low after taking off, fully laden, from RAF Finningley in those dire days.
I’ve spent the last four days bombing across the central plains with a good SE trade wind behind me, smoothish roads and nice gentle hills meant a good turn of speed – well the best an old man on a laden bike can do. The main highway seems perilously narrow especially for the huge trucks and buses overtaking horse carts and cyclists. But I survived although the many signs with the death rates for that section indicate many don’t. Haven’t seen any touring cyclists either since Holguin except for two obvious Germans this morning.
Since my last post I’ve stayed in homestays at Las Tunas, Camaguey, Ciego de Avila & tonight in Sancti Spiritus My favorite city been Camaguey which seems to be showing signs of entrepreneurial activity in folks front rooms. Worst homestay by far was in Las Tunas, where all the walls of the room were draped in fabric & the lady couldn’t be arsed to do breakfast
Accommodation hasn’t been a problem the last few days, if I circle the main square a few times someone will grab me and show me a homestay (the word casa particular seems to have fallen by the wayside) they are generally $20-$25 a night plus $3-$5 for breakfast.
I love the way when I stop for a snooze in the middle of nowhere ie a bus shelter, some guy will beckon me into his house and give me a drink and food. One guy even got a bowl of cold water to tip over my head great way of cooling down.
Here in Sancti Spiritus at the Hostal Calle Real the homestay is great with an open courtyard where i’m writing this. By the church I’ve just devoured two large homemade gorgeous chocolate ice creams made in plastic drinking cups at 6CUP (15p) each a true bargain
A quick thanks to John & Charlotte for the moral support & energy bars at various points where we met on their car tour of the island after first meeting at brekkie in Santiago, Car touring is probably a saner way of exploring Cuba Hope you both had a good flight home.
The stats show I’ve now biked 873 miles and been on the road 17 days. (51 miles per day)
Todays ride is here https://www.strava.com/activities/437686177
I’ve today completed the South coast loop of Cuba traveling the full length of the South coast in an anti-clockwise direction starting and ending in Holguin. It’s taken 11 days of riding plus 1 rest day to do the very hilly nearly 1000km. I had overnight stays in:- Bayamo (From Haiguin), Manzanillo, Marea delPortillo, Uvero, Playa?, Guatanamo, Yacobe , Baracoa, Moa, Mayari, Holguin
Roughest road sections are a tie between Portillo and Uvero or Baracoa to Moa
Hilliest by far is Yacobe to Baracoa but every day has seen a good selection of hills
Worst aspect of Cuban biking is the belching trucks but in between them the roads are deserted,
Plenty more to say anon but I’ve a lot to do as now I want to start on the header map